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10/15 (cont'd.) - 10/18/2003 (Chagauramas, Trinidad) Don't you just hate it when somebody puts a tune in your head and you can't shake it? Well, start humming Otis Redding's Sittin' on the Dock of the Bay. Go ahead whistle too. Why? Because that's what I'm doing as I write this. It'll be another catch up entry, so the details may be a bit light. Then again, I have time so they may not be... JFK was a pain as it always is. The long term parking is served by buses (although they are building a tram) and I waited forever for one. A nasty little 30 knot breeze made it a bit uncomfortable in spite of my having wisely chosen to wear jeans and a windbreaker. But eventually the bus arrived. The new Terminal 4 is a delight: clean, airy, well light, and vacant at midday. And it's the only place I know where you can buy Maynard's Wine Gums. These are gummy bears that aren't bears and are a grown up's joy. They have a black current flavored gummy that I just love. I learned about these things from Michelle and Woody on Catbird. If I'm a good guy I'll remember to pick some up for them when I return. Stop humming or whistling, I've left the dock. Can you? (The dock lacked a table, had too much noise spilling over from the bar, was home to a bunch of no see 'ums, and I wanted some of those Wine Gums in my fridge) The flight itself was long, crowded, and uneventful. BWIA is not a bad airline. They may lead you to believe you're on a nonstop when you're not (a 29 minute, stay-in-the-plane, stop in Antigua) but their flight staff is exceedingly polite. And get this, they actually serve a hot meal. In coach no less. Gil was waiting for me when I finally cleared Immigration, got my bags, and passed through Customs. We stopped on the way to the boatyard to see the end of the Cubs game. Sigh. Very loud sigh! Then it was out to the yard. Gil had arranged an apartment in the yard for me. It's a small efficiency. Clean enough and ,mercifully, air conditioned. I was wiped out so I said good night and crashed. Gil has a room in town (Port of Spain) that he returned to. I slept well and late. It was about 0900 when I wandered over to Freedom. She's a beauty of a boat: a 52' Tayana, dark blue and white hull, a sloop (yea, not a ketch!) and well maintained. In the spring Gil discovered water where it shouldn't be in the fiberglass laminate. So she was left on the hard all summer to dry. Now she's been stripped of her gel coat and has been getting a new layer of fiberglass added. Soon she'll get 6 coats of an epoxy water barrier and three coats of paint. There are some little things that need attending to so I'm helping Gil with those. We started by reattaching the pneumatic boom vang. Easy enough but it took a bit of time. Then we bleed the air from the hydraulic system that powers the vang and backstay. A check of the halyards showed they are running free as they should be. Then it was time for lunch. Gil steered me over to the roti shack in the yard. A rotiI is a local sandwich. Think of it as a West Indian burrito and you'd be close. Delicious and cheap. He stayed to watch the crew that was laying the glass as a little oversight goes a long way. I don't recall what we did in the afternoon. We ended the day by having drinks with my neighbor Jim. Then Jim and I had dinner while Gil returned to town. An early bed beckoned and I answered. The next day (Thursday) I was up at 0645 and out for a jog. I covered some ground but not as much of it at a jog because I was just too damn hot. Maybe when I acclimate it will be easier. But I got a good sweat going and kept the ticker pounding for 40 minutes. I showered and had breakfast, a bowl of Apple Jacks (there's a decent little grocery store beneath me.) Off to the boat. Where's Gil? That was the question I asked for a while. He finally showed up, a blurry eyed but happy Yankees fan [JCC you should never have taunted the Cubs fans, can you say "comeuppance"? ;) ] The work crew has laid much of the glass so they spent the day sanding down the fairing compound which went on top of it. This is a spackle-like epoxy that serves as protection from water and abrasion. The dust is atrocious so we worked inside the boat. We tightened chain plate bolts, attached ground wires, hung a new light, and remounted trim. I went back to my place for lunch to make a sandwich, Gil grabbed a roti and joined me there. I was tired from my early run and a beer at lunch so I took a nap while he talked to suppliers and ran errands. After I woke I spent a few minutes surfing at a local internet cafe and found my way to the boat. I enjoyed a burger in the restaurant here; joined again by Jim. A local steel pan (that's steel drum to us yankees) band composed of yard workers provided some nice music. Then it was back to spend the evening reading. I was up until after 0200 reading Ridley Pearson's The Art of Deception. It's a gripping but slightly unbelievable murder mystery. But that's what I tend to read, so who am I to complain? Gil had plans for the day so I was free. So I slept until 1030. I finished the book sitting out by the water. Being the weekend everybody that has a boat was launching it. So I got to see a lot of the locals. This is an interesting place. We're barely 7 mile from Venezuela so there's a strong Latin influence (the local language is a creole of Spanish and English), it's a former British colony so there's a certain formality and politeness, the yard has lots of boats from the Germany and Scandinavia so there are guttural sounds aplenty to be heard. All in all I like it. I spent the afternoon taking a long (2+ hours) walk in towards Port of Spain and along the shore of Chagauramas National Park. The sea is pretty and there are steep (volcanic?) hills that come right down to the shore. The hills are heavily wooded and lush, wisps of steam rise from them all afternoon - especially after the afternoon rains. It's very pretty. A shower, dinner, a bit more internet time, and now this rounded out the day. And a good one it has been. Tomorrow: another run, mast work, and the NFL in town. 10/19/2003 (Chaguaramas, Trinidad) I was up early as Gil had said he'd be here early. A few minutes after I got to the boat he showed up. A few minutes after that I went up. Up the mast in the bosun's chair. This mast is taller than Odyssey's; I was 74 feet above the waterline. Since the boat is up on the hard I was probably close to 85 feet above the ground. After I put on the anchor/tri-color light, the VHF antenna, and the windex, I tried to put on the anemometer. Unfortunately I didn't pay attention to what I was doing and managed to mangle the electrical contact pins. Gil was gracious about it but I'll make sure I replace it tomorrow. I love going up top -- the view is spectacular, the breeze feels great, and it's just a great feeling. But it does take it's toll physically. When I was at the top I couldn't reach the everything easily. To reach things requires stretching in strange ways. By the end of 15 minutes my abdominal muscles were quivering every time I reached up. A really strong quiver -- enough to shake me enough to feel the whole mast shaking because of it. Still, I love going up there. Next time I'll take the camera. I showered and we headed into town to watch the NFL games. The big screen was showing the N.E. vs. Miami game - that was a great game. We could see almost every other game being played on the 20 some odd screens. Except that is the Bengals trouncing of the Ravens. I had a nice roast beef lunch and a few beers. The bar had the AC working too hard and was way too chilly. So after the first games were over we headed out. Gil drove me out to a local mall were I grabbed a cab. Back at the yard I put on the running gear and really hung it out. I ran the same route as the other morning -- 2/3rds the time. It's much cooler at sunset than at sunrise. I was able to run faster and for longer stretches. But I was really drenched with sweat by the end. I walked around the dock area in a strong breeze for 20 minutes. After 15 minutes in the AC'd room I was still sweating. It took a long cold shower with some of that great Dr. Bronner's Peppermint Soap to cool me off. The whole thing felt great. The grocery was still open so I grabbed a paper and a beer. Both were quite enjoyable along the waterfront. Later I went back to the room and made a few tuna sandwiches. They too were enjoyable by the waterside. A few minute of writing and it's bed time. 10/20/2003 (Chagauramas, Trinidad) I'm very tired and have been all day. And it was a busy day. So I can't say I expect this to be a long or insightful entry. I did not sleep particularly well last night -- my left knee was sore. It's sorer today. It feels very much light the bout of tendonitis I suffered in my right knee (of the PES tendons) a few months ago. Not nearly as painful as that one was but still plenty sore. To add to my discomfort my abdominal muscles are sore and I have light bruising on the inside of my thighs from hanging onto the mast. But these are minor compared to the ego bruising pains of working for a living so I'll smile through it. And to be safe, I'll go light on the jogging next few times out. I was out of the swanky swingin' stud bachelor quarters (I'll post a photo perhaps...) by 0800. First stop was the internet place. I had my laptop so I updated these entries through the one above. I exchange a pair of important and useful emails with Josh. It's great having a friend like him to lean on. Thanks for the help JAK. Then it was onward to a place that will be able to fix the anemometer. And pretty cheaply too. They had a warranty return that was going to be thrown out so they're giving us parts off it for free. An hour of labor and we should be good to go. And since this is T&T that labor is pretty reasonable -- less than the cost of an auto mechanic in the states. After all that walking it was about 1000 before I was back at the boat. (Drenched with sweat of course.) Gil had spent the morning with a marine surveyor -- an insurance company issue. He was working on pulling out the raw water impeller from the motor. (The impeller draws in salt water to run through a heat exchanger to cool the motor) I watched and also remounted a loose speaker. The we ran a few errands and got lunch. Today it was a potato roti. Not very spectacular but sustenance. Back at the boat we did battle with the generator's impeller. That one is buried way in the back and extremely hard to get too. My help was basically limited to providing tools and light. But at least I understand how these vital things work now. Gil headed out and I spent time doing laundry. Random observations about T&T:
10/21/2003 (Chaguaramas, Trinidad) Today was a non-entity. Almost nothing actually happened. I had trouble sleeping again, not as much as the previous night (aspirin helped the knee), but trouble nonetheless. When I got to the boat Gil had almost nothing to do that we wanted to tackle. So we set out on some errands. A new battery will be available for the generator on a days notice if we want on. Ok, that was easy. I set up an account with a local internet place that has the only WiFi hotspot in T&T. From here on out I'll have unlimited nighttime access (1800 to 0600). Ok, that was easy. We got lunch. OK, that was too easy. Then we went to pick up the anemometer. That was not successful. It turns out that the guy in the shop couldn't give us the spare parts and does not have access to any more. We'll have this one rebuilt in the state. Easy but a bummer. Back to the yard. I was beginning to feel unwell. So when Gil said there was nothing to do on the boat, I said I'd just rest for the afternoon. Good decision. Something I ate within the last 24 hours was not happy to be inside of me; nor am I happy it was there. The nice thing about a very small apartment is that you're never more than 6 steps from the head. At least I was here, I've had this start when I was on a plan home from Mexico. That's just downright misery. I'm feeling better now so that's good. I spent time doing a little email. Thanks to all of you that I'm corresponding with, you make my day brighter. Big thanks to MB, LDA, and JJ. Then I downloaded new drivers for the PC and installed them. I took a shower. Before showering I wanted to trim my beard and mustache. I got out the trimmer; looked at the setting; saw it was on 4; and started to trim away. I looked at the clippings and they looked awfully long. Then I looked at the trimmer. It's broken. (I think I recall dropping it when I last used it, way back in Bangor, ME.) It says 4 but it trims at 1, the shortest length. I now have an extremely short beard and mustache. I now need a new trimmer. At least the hair will grow in. Better yet, I didn't start with my eyebrows. I'm going to try to chug down a bunch of fluids and then get some rest. I bet you're too excited to rest after reading this. (Oh yeah, I forgot to tell everybody that sometime within the last few days I trimmed my toenails. Now all the hygiene and grooming updates are done.) Still got Otis Redding racing through your mind? 10/22/2003 (Chaguaramas, Trinidad) I slept late since I did not get to sleep very early. But when I awoke I felt substantially better. Quite frankly we've run out of meaningful things for me to do on the boat. Gil spent the morning cleaning up and organizing. Just after I showed up, Ken the skipper of the neighboring boat popped his head up and invited me to lunch. I agreed. Ken has sailed his boss' 52' Oyster here for a bit of warranty work and a bottom painting. He has to get the boat up to Martinique to meet the owner next weekend. The boat is not so big that he has any trouble handling it, but Martinique is 48 hours of sailing away. If he picks up a hand he can do it straight through easily, otherwise he goes 2 days without sleep. He asked me if I was willing to join him. I said if I could make some things work up north I'd love to. The thing up north was connecting with Bob (of Boundless, the Hinckley we brought from ME to NY). He's anxious to make it to Norfolk. We emailed back and forth and things will work. So the future looks like this:
At some point in there I'll need to see an embassy -- my passport expires in February 2004. Wow, it's going to be busy. WOW! It's all beginning to come together. We spent the evening drilling into the stainless steel drive shaft strut to mount a line cutter (better to cut a line than let it foul the screw). It's hard work frilling into stainless. Gil carried that load. I was up late. Somebody made it worth my while to join AIM. No, not the American Indian Movement -- I don't condone terrorism -- AOL Instant Messenger. I can be found with the name VAGABONDJIM65. What is this world coming to? 10/23/2003 (Chaguaramas, Trinidad) Ever watched paint dry? That's the work today. They have finished with the structural stuff (fiberglass and fairing compound) now comes 6 layers of barrier coat, 3 coats of epoxy primer, and eventually 2 or 3 coats of antifouling paint. Workers down here generally need to be watched lest paint, primer, or barrier coat be applied thinly and the excess just wander off. So Gil spent a lot of time watching paint, actually barrier coat and primer, applied and drying today. I spent much of the day figuring out the T&T immigration issues involved in my departure(s) and return(s). 3 trips each to the boat yard office and the immigration office. I also tangled with the web to look for flights. Things are shaping up. We finished doing the drilling for the line cutters and called it a day. I believe that basically wraps up the work we're doing, the rest is the yard crew. Tomorrow will be more primer and hopefully at least 1 coat of paint. Then it will be off to the airport. I walked over to Peake's, the yard next door for dinner. It was too loud and crowded so I settled for a chicken sandwich in Power Boats (the yard where Freedom is). I'm done with that so next will be more IM'ing I hope. 10/24/2003 (Pelham, NY) Details of day and flight will be posted later. Right now I'm just going to respond to the clamoring for pics. Assateague campsite and ponies. Chagauramas boat yards, S/V Freedom's new look, and your intrepid traveller....
10/24-28/200 (Trinidad -> NYC - Norfolk -> NYC) Wow, some serious traveling the last few days. It all started with a long but uneventful trip from Port of Spain to JFK. BWee still impresses me as a decent airline. Gill and I chatted much the way back. It fun to see the relationship turning into a friendship. I certainly enjoy Gil's company; he's got a wealth of sailing experience and helpful advice. We hit JFK and got through the mortal struggle that is the bus to the long term parking lot. Oh, the humanity! I ran Gil to his place in Manhattan and headed straight for Pelham. Josh and Carol were just heading to bed so I did the same. But I did take the time to post the photos above. The sacrifices I make for you dear readers... The next morning I woke, showered, dressed, and walked right into the middle of a collection of strangers. J&C were having a tag sale with some of their friends. Lots of folks came out to look. Nobody bought the 1990 Jeep Waggoner or the 1993(?) Volvo station wagon. But they bought lots of little stuff. Now J&C have beer money for a few weeks. I dashed to the locker. There I did the lousiest job of thinking about what to pack. If I thought I might need it I took it. I ended up with 2 full duffle bags for a 3 day trip! One of the bags had nothing but cool weather sailing gear; foulies, sea boots, PFD, hat, gloves, etc. The other had room for my XM boom box. So it wasn't that bad I guess. Then it was out to Oyster Bay to hook up with Boundless. She looked great. It was terrific to see Bob as well. The added bonus was a chance to meet Albert. Albert is friends with my friend xoJN. xoJN mentioned my sailing to him who put me in touch with Bob; but I had never meet Albert. What a treat that was. He sailed with us through the Sound and East River. While on the boat he shared fascinating stories about his past -- HBS before it was trendy, Morgan Stanley while Mssrs. Morgan and Stanley were there, lumber companies in the middle of nowhere Alabama, and the hey day of private venture capitalism. Plus some top flight sailing too. An incredible guy. We dropped him off at 23rd street, but I would have enjoyed his company if he had stayed through to Norfolk. We motored through NY harbor, beautiful. (I'm writing from a plane but when I get a chance I might be able to post photos.) Then under the Verrazzano Narrows Bridge and into the Atlantic. It was dark by this time but the view of Manhattan and lower Brooklyn/Queens was still terrific. The next two and a half days were to be very homogenous - long and tiring. With only 2 of us on the boat, we did not really spend any time together. One on watch, the other sleeping was the pattern until the very end. Bob was troubled with mal de mer but not so horribly as to actually be sick. It was enough to keep him from eating anything. I didn't eat much either: I was too lazy to prep anything -- as soon as watch was done I hit the head and then the sack. We kept an informal watch system. We'd sleep until rested and then relieve the other. If either of us got tired on watch we knew we could wake the other. It worked great. We motored (wind was on the nose at 25 knots and we never sailed at all) for about 55 straight hours. I suspect we each got between 20 and 24 hours of rest. But it was still a long slog. The skies were grey and dark the entire time but never produced any meaningful rain. The seas were generally 5-7', occasionally we'd hit short stretches of 9-12', but they were never a problem. I slept in the fo'csle with no problems - I was lifted from the mattress by the waves a few times that was just good fun. I spent a lot of my night watches talking to my new friend Janice, She's in California so I could talk while it was late in the East and not so in the West. That made watches a lot easier and a helluva lot more fun. She's a marine biologist and oceanographer. You'll hear more about her in the future. (A big hello to all of her friends who have started reading this site based on her recommendation.) Coming through the Chessie and Norfolk was amazing. 3 Arliegh Burke class destroyers roared past used in the process, a few huge container ships, and some very very big naval supply vessels. Plus, we saw a lot more of these things (including two carriers) docked. The docks are only a few hundred feet from the channels so it's a great view. (Pictures later...) Tidewater Marina provided the best shower ever (after almost 3 days without one) and a great meal. It was great to get a solid night's sleep too. We pottered about the boat today and I caught a flight back to NYC. Tomorrow is another repack and return to T&T. I'll post more from there if I get the chance. 10/29-30/2003 (Pelham, NY -> Chaguaramas, Trinidad -> Prickly Bay, Grenada) Shhhhhh! Don't tell anyone, we've slipped into Grenada illegally. Here's how we got here. Josh and Carol's was quiet this time when I awoke. No garage sale today. I chatted with Josh about work, travel, romance etc. Carol was supposed to be attending a field trip with Max's class to the Bronx Zoo; rain caused sewage backups which led to the cancellation of the trip. So I spent a few minutes with her. Then it was off to the locker. UGHH! Suffice it to say I did not have fun. A quick but fruitless run to the pharmacy (insurance computer hiccups....) and I was off to JFK The flight was so late - over 2 hours - that BWIA changed the itinerary. It was supposed to stop in Antigua, but instead went straight through to Trinidad. A friendly Immigration officer was followed by a long wait for luggage and a stupid Customs official. I was tired and grumpy which probably did not help... A cab ride to the docks, a radio call to Ken, a few minutes of hellos and boat stuff and it was bed time; at 0100. Bed time? More like sauna time. "Mad dogs and Englishmen" don't put air conditioning on their boats. Up at 0530 and a walk to Immigration. I signed on to S/Y Francis Flute (of Harwich, England) and filed the papers to leave Trinidad. ^ hours in country! Customs followed. Much easier than last night. Ken ,the Captain, is a great guy. 33 years old with 11 of them spent sailing professionally. We took it easy today. Just about 85nm from Trinidad to Grenada. I peppered him with questions since the seas were flat, the winds light, and the time seemed right to. I picked up some great advice. We hit Grenada at dusk and decided to not clear Immigration. If we didn't leave the boat this might not be much of an issue. But we had dinner ashore. So technically I was an illegal alien I guess. Dinner was not actually good enough food to merit the effort but it was easier than cooking and cleaning ourselves. The boat does not have any 110v outlets. To conserve batteries until Martinique and to get some rest I'm going to end this entry here. 10/31 11/01/2003 (Prickly Bay, Grenada - > Le Marin, Martinique, France) Ok, this is written so far after the fact (11/3) that I will confess my memory is a tad sparse here. So without further ado (nor premature adieu) here's what I remember:
That's all my sun addled feeble mind can come up with now (maybe the red wine and calvados are having some effect too.) |
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